Textiles play one of the biggest roles in the world today, whether it’s the people who are making the textiles or the people who are using them. What most people fail to realize it that these textiles that are needed so much in today’s lifestyles are causing huge impacts on our planet and can be causing irreversible effects.
1. Information on Common Terms used.
1.1. Carbon Foot Print
A carbon footprint is defined as the amount of greenhouse gases, mainly carbon dioxide, released into the atmosphere by mainly human activities. carbon footprint can be calculated for:
- An individual
- A family
- An event
- An organization
- An entire nation
It is usually measured as tonnes of carbon dioxide emitted yearly. Gases such as methane, nitrous oxide and greenhouse gases are also added.
1.2. Fast Fashion
Fast Fashion is the term used by fashion retailers to define clothing designs that sell more quickly from the catwalk to be in the line with current fashion trends. These are normally based on the spring and autumn fashion trends. These trends are designed and manufactured quickly and cheaply so that the average consumer can take advantage of current clothing styles at the cheaper prices.
1.3. Eco Fashion
‘Eco Fashion’ is a new term for environmentally friendly clothing or fashion design. Eco fashion takes into account the following:
- The environment
- The health of the people wearing the clothing
- Working conditions of the manufactures
Eco fashion takes the following into account:
- Clothing are made from raw materials such as cotton on which no pesticides have been used. And silk from worms fed organic vegetation.
- Clothes are made from recycled textiles, as well as recycled plastic have been used for creative touches.
- Clothes are designed to last longer.
- No harmful chemicals, dyes or bleaches are used.
- Employees making these eco clothes are treated fairly and paid a fair wage’s
1.4. Organic (Textiles Production)
Organic Fiber and other natural fibers are grown according to National Organic Standards, without the use of toxic and persistent pesticides, synthetic fertilizers or genetic engineering.
The organic fibers include:
- Cotton
- Wool
- Hemp or Flax
- Other organic fibers which conforms with the standards
1.5. Sustainable Textiles
Sustainable textiles consist of two different types of natural fibers, namely plant fibers and animal fibers.
Some plant materials are more sustainable than other. Hemp, soy and bamboo are versatile and sturdy plants with minimal environmental impact.
Cotton is not as environmentally friendly as hemp, although it is softer. Cotton can also be grown in different color’s therefore reducing the need for dyes.
Among the animal fibers are the wool, camel and llama, which are al produced in different manners. All of these products are more sustainable than the synthetic products made from petrol.
1.6. Ethical Fashion
The Ethical Fashion forum states:
“Ethical Fashion is an approach to the design, souring and manufacture of clothing which maximizes benefits to people and communities while minimizing the impact on the environment”
Basically, ethical fashion is a product which is produced responsibly and fairly.
Examples: Reducing environmental impact
: Treating and paying workers fairly
Ethical fashion is important because our lives aren’t the only important ones. The planet matters as the lives of the garment workers.
2. Negative Impact of Textiles and Clothing Manufacture Throughout Each Production Stage
2.1. Natural Textiles
Growing the raw materials, that are used to make fabrics, including flax, hemp and cotton, require a large amount of water.
Cotton
The cotton plant is a very thirsty plant and requires extra amounts of water. Not only do these plants require water, a lot of pesticides and herbicides are used, and these end up in the environment. Once again cotton is a big culprit, as it is one of the most pesticide intensive crops in the world.
Cotton takes up a huge amount of land, which can be used by the local people to grow their own food. During mechanical cotton harvesting, herbicides and chemical defoliants are sometimes used, which are also negatively affecting the environment and human health. These chemicals usually remain in the fabric after completion and are released during the life time of the item.
Wool Production
Wool is essentially a renewable resource, but the mass production and processing of wool can have some negative impacts on the environment.
Most sheep are dipped in poisonous insecticides to kill lice and ticks. These organophosphate dips can be harmful to the farm workers, affecting their central nervous system. These pesticides can also leave a residue on the wool, which eventually ends up in out clothing.
The wool industry is full of animal welfare issues, where the skin, ears and tails are sometimes ripped off during shearing.
Flax, Ramie and Hemp, Silk, Leather and Natural Bamboo
All of the above mentioned are a rapidly-renewable resource and can grow with virtually no fertilizers, insecticides and minimal water.
Leather is an agricultural by product of the meat and dairy industry. It is reusable and biodegradable. With Flax, Ramie, Hemp, and natural Bamboo, the mechanical methods of harvesting have a negative effect on the environment, such as producing highly polluted waste water, and the use of enzymes and water increases the biochemical oxygen demand, which results in eutrophication of waterways.
Silk on the other hand, is resource intensive as the atmosphere, are controlled and rigid growth conditions are necessary. The extraction of the fibers by the steaming, kills the silk chrysalis, and the cleaning process involves chemicals, and the waste of water is usually discharged into the ground water.
Animal welfare is a huge problem with regard to leather, and in some countries non-existent. Hazardous substances can be used during the tanning process, which will eventually land up in the ground water.
Synthetic Materials
The process involved in the turning petroleum into polyester is a rather nasty one. Factory workers, of which many are children, often work in horrible conditions, and face a lot of health issue. The heating of the materials needed to create polyester is very energy-intensive and the by product can cause long term health problems.
2.2. Manufacture of Textiles, from Raw Materials to Finished Products
The manufacturing of a garment starts with the fiber, whether it is plant, animal or crude oil derived, it usually involves an energy and pollutant-intensive process. The fiber is processed until it can be spun into yarn, which is then either woven or knitted into a fabric. During this process there is usually dyes and bleaches involved. Eventually the fabric is made into an item of clothing. Every one of these processes probably happens in different factories and most probably in different countries. Each one of the stages has an environmental impact.
Approximately 60 million people work in the textile industry worldwide, many of them for long hours and low wages. The textile factories can have very poor working conditions such as:
- Overcrowded
- Lack of safety measures
- Continuous loud noise
- Constant exposure to pollutants
Many of these factories, all over the world are responsible for major air pollution, emitting harmful gases such as carbon monoxide and Sulphur dioxide into the atmosphere. Some finishing processes for fabrics, use formaldehyde, and this also ends up in the atmosphere.
2.3. Transport
Transport is vital to the distribution of goods and services, as well as trade and regional development. However, it also impacts the environment. All means of transport releases gas particles onto the air, which effects air quality and the human body. This polluted air increases the risk of health issues. Transportation causes Nosie pollution, which in its own can cause health problems.
One of the bigger impacts is to the water systems and wildlife habitats. Bits of rubber, oil and other pollutants from vehicles are left on the roads all the time. When it rains, these pollutants are transported via the rain to the waterways and dams, affecting the wildlife habitats. Because these products need to be transported, quicker, bigger and faster roads are being built, and the circle of negative impact continues.
Shipping of textiles causes pollution and damage to the environment, whether by air, land or sea.
2.4. Packaging
The material of packaging in the common market of textiles includes plastic bags, composite bags, PVC shrinkable film, printing film, packaging film, bubble film and bubble bags etc. the materials cannot be recovered and are hardly degradable.
2.5. Use by Consumers
Consumers are beginning to realize that they play a big role in textiles pollution around the world. By buying fast fashion items, such as clothing that is mass produced in large quantities. These fast fashions items are affordable and therefore purchased more often. Now fast fashion items are not made to last, which means that they will need replacing sooner. Basically, low quality clothing means shopping more often, and tossing more clothes in the trash.
2.6. Disposal of Obsolete Articles
Waste has a detrimental effect on our environment. While clothing is sometimes donated and recycle, the majority of textiles waste ends up in landfills. Here they release greenhouse gases and leach toxins and dyes in the surrounding soil, and then into waterways.
3. What Can Be Done
100 million tons of new textiles come onto the market every year, and the textile industry has one of the highest turnovers in the world. Presently, most negative environmental I impact are based on the type of textile fiber used, such as wool, polyester, cotton or nylon. Actually, recent studies show that this is not where the major environmental impact is. It is actually in the post fiber processing stages such as:
- Spinning
- Weaving
- Knitting
- Dyeing
All the chemical used in the above processes, make them as hazardous as growing convention cotton.
Organic Cotton and Wool
Organic cotton is way better for the environment, climate and people involved. No pesticides are used, therefor the soil and environments aren’t affected. They are also extremely harmful to the people near them and can be deadly and cause many chronic illnesses.
Rather than depleting the soil, organic cotton farming replenishes and maintains soil fertility. Crop rotation is practiced, and organic farming requires less water because of the increased organic matter in the soil.
Finally, the organic cotton is more expensive, which means a more stable income for the producer, and more because organic cotton is grown using untreated GMO-free seeds, the farmers don’t need to rely on expensive chemicals.
Organic wool is another that needs to be encouraged. Certified organic wool is absolutely free of any chemicals. Because of this it does not cause negative impacts on land, people, air and soil.
Textile Recycling
“We can all make a greater environmental impact through textile recycling”
Every year millions of tons of clothing end up in landfill sites. Recycling keeps this amount down. To make new textiles requires a lot of energy, and negative effects on the environment, by recycling clothing when there are no longer needed, the energy used doesn’t all go to waste.
Old, torn or stained clothes can be recycled into wiping rags, insulation, paper and yarn. It costs a lot less to make these from recycled textiles than using new textiles and saving a lot of money and resources. By recycling, it helps to reduce the need for the manufacture of something new.
Donating clothing to societies that care for underprivileged families and people is also a good way of saving the environment and helping someone less privileged.
Reducing the Impact of Textiles Manufactured
The best way to reduce environmental impact is to prevent it in the first place. Manufactures can adopt environmentally responsible purchasing polices regarding purchasing and packaging of materials, therefore using less polluting raw materials. Purchasing the materials in returnable containers is also an option.
Textiles manufacture relies heavily on chemicals, so chemical substitution can be an option.
Examples – Replacing chemicals with less polluting ones.
– Try other treatments instead of chemical ones.
The processes involved in the dyeing process are responsible for huge amounts of pollutants. Manufactures could consider reusing dye and rinse baths.
Companies need to improve production efficiencies and still maintaining low operating costs, and incorporate pollution preventing codes into their management policies.
These codes could include:
- Ongoing waste reduction.
- Research of pollution preventions.
- Minimizing water by maintaining pipes, e.g. preventing leaks.
- Proper maintenance on machinery
- Informing and training of staff regarding positive ways for reducing pollution.
What Can We Do?
Consumer actions are one of the most effective ways of reducing the environment load of clothing. If you want to be as eco-friendly as possible, use your clothes until they are worn out. Another important aspect is to check now where the clothes were made, and what they are made from.
Donate clothes that are in good condition to development projects and charities. Don’t get caught up in fast fashion, these pieces of clothing won’t last long and are detrimental to our environment.
“the most environmentally sustainable jacket is the one that’s already in your closet…”
– Lisa William
Conclusion
People all over the world can help to reduce the negative effects that textile manufacturing is having on the environment. The problem may not ever be completely destroyed but through different ways and different ideas being used to make products with more environmentally friendly processes, the impact can be reduced in a large number.