Sustainability has recently gained popularity in the world of fashion as companies are reevaluating the ethics and effects of clothing production and consumption. Sustainability can be defined generally as the conservation of the balance of living and existing in the natural world while maintaining respect for the environment, without stripping it of its natural resources. It can also be defined as “[living] a life where you are not taking any more from the earth than what you are giving back; you are trying to minimize the environmental footprint that you leave behind” (Joy et al., 285). The application of sustainability to the world of fashion is becoming increasingly relevant as companies, organizations, and the public are becoming more informed about fashion-related concerns such as ethical sourcing of materials, creating green-alternatives to natural textiles, and restructuring the fashion experience for consumers. It is important to acknowledge that the apparel industry plays a major role in the global economy and therefore the problem of sustainability in the context of fashion has an international impact.
The Millennial Generation is impacted by the negative costs of fast-fashion in society as it affects environmental resources and the labor force, as well as the prospect of a promising future. Dangerous labor conditions in apparel and textile workplaces, the problem of pollution and carbon emissions, the alarming amount of water waste in apparel production, and fashion’s contribution to the amount of plastic in the ocean are all detrimental consequences of shopping habits (Susetyo, news.globallandscapesforum.org). As consumers, Millennials seek to find ways to consume fashion more sustainably and ethically by supporting companies that take initiative and make progress in terms of sustainable fashion. Sustainability in fashion is a multi-faceted social problem that impacts many aspects of society, and it is important that consumers change their shopping habits to conserve the limited resources of the environment and create a more sustainable path for future generations.
Globally, there is an apparent lack of ethical and environmental consideration in the fashion industry in terms of both production and consumption. Millennial and Generation Z consumers are playing a more active role in disrupting the “take-make-waste” cycle and creating a viable future for generations to come with the resources available on this planet (Drew and Yehounme, wri.org). However, they do not view clothing consumption as a contributing factor to the pressing environmental and ethical problems that are faced by today’s population. In their minds, environmental awareness includes recycling, separating out plastic and paper materials from the trash to dispose of them properly, and adapting renewable energy sources, such as the utilization of solar panels for electricity. These consumers “definitely support the idea of sustainability, but do not apply such ethics when it comes to sustainable fashion” (Joy et al., 288). Although fashion is not typically thought of in the realm of sustainability, changing clothing consumption habits can drastically affect the viability of our economy and environmental resources.
Fashion, a $2.5 billion business, is one of the world’s largest industrial polluters that is second only to the oil industry. Fast-fashion has increased production and consumption as it shortens fashion cycles and introduces new trends more frequently. People are buying more clothing as new products are constantly becoming available and “the average consumer is now purchasing 60 percent more items of clothing compared to 2000, but each garment is kept half as long” (Drew and Yehounme, wri.org). Fashion has become more disposable as fast-fashion lacks in quality and durability and “the lost value of wasted apparel due to underuse and lack of recycling reached $500 billion annually” (Susetyo, news.globallandscapesforum.org). With such information being so easily accessible, it is imperative for the fashion industry to make their consumers aware of the cost of fashion waste and provide ideas as to how to adopt a more sustainable lifestyle.
According to the Stanford Social Innovation Review of 2008, there are five identified barriers to being green which include “lack of awareness, negative perceptions, distrust, high prices, and low availability” (Joy et al., 289). The Global Fashion Agenda, an international leadership anchored around the Copenhagen Fashion Summit outlines 7 priorities of fashion companies to help them achieve sustainability (O’Connor, businessoffashion.com). The priorities of the Agenda’s report can serve as a response to the detours stated above: supply chain traceability, efficient use of resources, ethical and safe labor environments, sustainable materials, closed-loop fashion system, fair wages, and a fourth industrial revolution.
Supply chain traceability encourages brands to increase transparency and encourage stakeholder engagement by publishing a list of their suppliers, tracking the source of raw materials used in products, and documenting practices in the different stages of production. This will instill a sense of accountability to companies if they know that other organizations have access to information regarding their practices and ethics.
The second priority relates to efficient use of water, energy and chemicals. Processes such as the chemical tanning of leather and the dyeing of denim contribute to fashion’s carbon emissions and pollution. Garment manufacturing accounts for approximately 20% of industrial water pollution globally, with fabric dyeing and cotton farming being major contributors. It takes 2,700 liters of water to produce one cotton shirt, which is the amount of water the average person consumes in two-and-a-half years (Drew and Yehounme, wri.org). The alarming quantity of water required for clothing production is particularly destructive to those in areas that use these bodies of water as their primary source since they experience such water stress and heavy pollution. Brands should track water consumption, energy and chemical usage, and pollution collaboratively with their suppliers to aid in creating efficiency programs in the early stages of the supply chain to reduce the environmental impact of fashion production.
The third priority is to have fashion brands publish their ethical policies and mission statements addressing human rights in terms of the exploitation of laborers including workplace discrimination, low wages, and dangerous working conditions. The fashion industry supports over 75 million workers throughout the global value chain, and 80% of garment laborers are women between the ages of 18 and 35 (“Remake,” www.remake.world). There is an immediate need for the evaluation and improvement of ethical standards concerning the safety and and integrity of workers to uphold their integrity as people.
A sustainable material mix is crucial to reducing the amount of clothing that are thrown away. Raw materials can account for up to half of a company’s environmental footprint which emphasizes the importance of ethical sourcing and innovation. It is in the best interest of a company to increase their use of “low-impact materials, such as organic cotton, and invest in the development of new, sustainable materials” (“Remake,” www.remake.world). Currently, most garments are composed of non-biodegradable, synthetic fabrics such as nylon and polyester that cannot be broken down and recycled like natural fabrics, including cotton and silk. This results in the “13 trillion tons of textiles [that] are disposed into landfills every year in the US”
and typically sit there for 20-200 years (“Remake,” www.remake.world).
Implementing a closed-loop fashion system is a large goal to take on since there is so much disparity between the current consumption model and the goal of closed-loop recycling. Closed-loop recycling takes into account the negative impact of clothing manufacturing on society and the environment but does not attempt to disarm the capitalist market by limiting cycles of consumption as it fosters a rhythm of purchase and disposal, however the disposal method is sustainable as garments are reused and recycled (Brooks, Utopian Studies). Designers and product development teams should focus on the construction of the garment with a long-term goal of maximizing the garment by taking into consideration how easy it will be to recycle and reuse the fabric (O’Connor, businessoffashion.com).
The fashion industry plays a large role in sustaining economic health and employment, however workers are not typically compensated adequately for their labor. Wages in garment production countries are not enough to provide for workers’ basic needs, and the “minimum wage for women working in factories is 1/2 of what’s considered a living wage” (“Remake,” www.remake.world). Advocacy for better wage systems is necessary to remedy the current wage inequity as “it takes a garment worker 18 months to earn what a fashion brand CEO makes on their lunch break; many earn less than $3 per day” (“Remake,” www.remake.world). Companies should commit the same attention and resources to adhering to providing livable wages in production countries as they do for operations in the US.
The final priority outlined in the report involves a “fourth industrial revolution.” Technology plays a prominent role in driving change in the world of fashion. Automation and digitization have provided solutions to production problems, however the long-term impact of technology on the industry is somewhat hard to predict and plan for. It is necessary for companies to analyze the impact of technological advances on workers across supply chains and take this into consideration when employing new technologies.
The social issue of sustainability in the context of fashion impacts each of the three sectors in different respects. There are many ways in which business can fulfill their responsibility to the environment and make progress towards a more sustainable existence. Some stores have adopted programs to encourage their customers to responsibly recycle their clothing by implementing collection bins in stores and offering discounts off a future purchase for those who bring in unwanted items. Madewell, for example, gives customers $20 towards a new pair of Madewell jeans if they donate a pair to their denim recycling initiative that transforms pre-loved jeans into housing insulation for local communities and organizations in need.
An example of a business addressing the sustainability problems presented by the fashion industry is Rent the Runway. Rental services have grown in popularity as the sustainability movement has gained momentum in the fashion industry. The rental model allows garments to be utilized more than once, extending their life-cycles by sharing the garment among many individuals. Rent the Runway is one of the most prominent companies that utilizes this model and they invest in high-quality clothing that is durable, not fast fashion pieces that lack integrity in construction. Rent the Runway has transformed their mission to also address prominent ethical issues in fashion by taking a stance and phasing out garments made with real furs and feathers. Renting garments is sustainable because it saves all of the resources, such as water and energy, that would be used to manufacture a new piece of clothing. This service is ideal for consumers and caters to those looking for special occasion items that are only worn a few times, and reduces the amount of clothing that is thrown away annually. Garments that have reached the end of their life are then donated to organizations, continuing Rent the Runway’s mission of closed system recycling. The company has also reduced their plastic use and minimized over 900 tons of shipping waste through the creation of their patented eco-friendly garment bag that is made by converting plastic mailing bags, cardboard boxes and vinyl garment bags into just one sustainable that can be used and reused (Rent the Runway).
Nonprofit organizations are instrumental in spreading awareness of the social issue and getting people involved. Clothing donation drives that redistribute unwanted clothes to those who are in need is just one example of how nonprofits support sustainability in terms of fashion. Nonprofits serve as a platform to turn negatives of fashion consumption into a positive that benefits society. Remake is a nonprofit organization that is helping to re-define “slow fashion”. The organization is focused on bringing awareness to consumers about the ethical and sustainability issues in fashion by sharing information and stores while providing a comprehensive list of brands that respect women and the planet. Brands collaborate with Remake to combat the negative effects of fast-fashion and revolutionize the perception of “slow-fashion” that is durable, ethical, and higher quality. This organization prides itself on having high standards for the designers and brands that they feature, and are committed to only showcasing those that align with their mission and dedication to transparency, ethical treatment of workers, and sustainability efforts (“Remake,” www.remake.world).
The government takes an economic perspective when discussing sustainability in fashion. The concept of green finance has taken shape and is applicable to government actions relating to sustainability efforts. Green finance refers to financial investments or instruments that are issued under an agreement in exchange for delivery of effective environmental efforts. These contracts can involve firms, individuals, or organizations and are a way to guarantee that positive changes will be made regarding the environment. Soil carbon sequestration is another way in which the government participates in sustainability efforts (Susetyo, news.globallandscapesforum.org). This process addresses the issue of global warming and increased levels of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere by using soil to store carbon. Storing excess carbon in the soil not only improves the soil’s fertility but removes greenhouse gases from the air. The United Nations Environment Program is focused on creating programs to stimulate the transformation to a more sustainable fashion industry. Much of their efforts involve educating stakeholders in the problems currently faced by the environment, economy, and population today in order to raise awareness and encourage action towards a more sustainable future, however reducing the carbon footprint of production industries is a main goal of the organization.
There are many ways in which individual citizens can address the issue of over-consumption of apparel that do not require great sacrifices or complete uprooting of their routine. Individuals should donate old or unwanted clothing to collection bins or donation drives to give their garments a second life and provide for someone in need. Consumers can also bring clothes to a thrift or consignment shop, where they can potentially make money on items that would otherwise be sitting in their closet or thrown away. Money is always an incentive to get people to take action, and mobile apps and online websites have made consignment more accessible. Applications such as Poshmark allow consumers to list items from their closet, determine the price of the item,
and share it on a platform for buyers across the United States. Sharing garments in-person or through online platforms create a circular system that produces no waste.
Fast-fashion and bargain prices are detrimental to our planet and those involved in making the products we consume. In its current state, the fashion industry has an unsustainable impact globally and the United Nations “forecasts a 60 percent increase in the fashion industry’s greenhouse gas emissions and waste by 2030 if transformation towards a sustainable fashion industry fails to materialize soon” (Susetyo, news.globallandscapesforum.org). If the world population continues to consume at the same rate, three times as many natural resources will be needed in 2050 to support the demand of goods and products (Drew and Yehounme, wri.org). Consumers need to change their perspective and stop viewing fashion as a disposable commodity. A finite amount of resources exist on this planet and as inhabitants of the earth, the global population is responsible for addressing environmental concerns by changing habits of consumption and adopting a mindset that values sustainability.